The two link buttons are for articles on wire wheels that you may find of interest. Just bear in mind that they refer to a Triumph rather than a Spridget. Triumph's use a bolton hub adapter where a Spridget requires the entire hub on the front and a different axle on the rear.

Overview

If you do not do any hard cornering and you are willing to take a small chance on having axle trouble, the basic conversion is pretty simple. The problem with the simple conversion is that the wire wheel casing is narrower than the steel wheel casing and as a result the rear half shafts are slightly shorter than the steel wheel half shafts and don't reach into the steel wheel differential as far, so in theory, are more prone to breakage. I did this conversion on my Bugeye over twenty years ago and have yet to have any problems, but being the cautious type, I do carry a spare axle in the car. Like every thing else with these cars, you "pays your nickel and takes your chances". If you don't want to take that chance you will need the complete rear axle housing which makes the swap a little more work and maybe impossible for a Bugeye. I have seen wire wheel banjo's for the Bugeye for sale but they are few and far between. Later wire wheel banjo's can be fitted to a Bugeye but it requires some fabrication for the attachment points. You won't need the differential because yours will fit just fine. If you swap the entire casing you also won't have to mess with cutting the old rear wheel studs, assuming that you get the hubs with the casing. An alternative is to upgrade to the hardened axle's (very expensive).

Parts You Will Need

1. Front hubs with brake rotors(2).
2. Rear half shafts-axles(2).
3. Wire wheels(5). Don't forget about the spare.
4. Knock Offs(4).
5. Dust covers for the wire wheel hubs(2).
6. New rear axle gaskets(2).
7  New rear axle O-Rings(2).
8. Replacement nuts for the rear lug nuts. Same size and thread but without the taper of the lug nut(8). Get the old ones from the donor car along with the rear wire axles if possible.
9. New locktab washers (4) used to lock the nuts on the brake drums.

If you have an early front drum brake car you will also need the swivel axles, brake calipers, and king pins. In this case it's easier to swap the entire suspension and brakes including a-arms. The bonus is that you get front disk brakes in the conversion.

Front

1. Support the front of the car with jack stands and remove the wheels.
2. Pull the dust cover from the front hubs.
3. Pull the cotter pin that holds the castle nut on the axle.
4. Remove the castle nut.
5. Remove the hub.
6. Repack the new hubs with wheel bearing grease (I would replace the wheel bearings if I were doing it)
7. Install the new hubs/rotors in reverse order of old hub/rotor removal. Consult your workshop manual on how to adjust the tightness of the castle nut.

Note: The cotter pin on the wire wheel hubs is installed through a hole in the hub. It will show itself when you clean up the splines.

8. Install the dust cover.
9. Install wheel.

Note:  Be sure and grease the threads and splines prior to installing the wheels. If these are allowed to dry out they may gall and it will be extremely difficult to remove the wheels.

Rear

1. Support the rear of the car with jack stands and remove the wheels.
2. Slack off the brakes as far as they will go.
3. Remove the small screw(s) that cinch the drum to the axle.
4. Remove the brake drum (may or may not need a puller for this)
5. Remove the small screw(s) that hold the axle in place (axle is ultimately held by the wheel being bolted on)

7. Replace the gaskets and large rubber O-Ring. Don't use any sealer on the gaskets.
8. Insert the wire wheel axle. Install the small screw(s) to pull the axle down against the hub.
9. Replace the brake drum. Install the small screw(s) to pull the drum down against the axle.
10. Install the Lock Tab washers and your new nuts on the wheel studs. Bend the lock tabs to hold the nuts in place.
11. Cut the excess from the studs.
12. Adjust the brakes.
13. Install the wheels.

Note:  Be sure and grease the threads and splines prior to installing the wheels. If these are allowed to dry out they may gall and it will be extremely difficult to remove the wheels.